Prague was amazing. Wandered around the palace and old churches and went to a museum about the history of the palace...which was pretty cool as I didn't know much about the history of the Czech's before. As I was wandering around, I saw a silk carpet hanging on the wall and I thought, wow, that looks Persian, but the center is interesting...never seen that before. Then I checked out the description and sure enough, it was from the 1800's. The edges were very Persian in design but the center had the gear of a european warrior or something. very unique. Saw the house where Kafka lived for a bit. Prague was similar to Budapest in that the city was split across the river...one bank had the commercial and trendy restaurant area, whereas the other side (mostly) had the historical castles and such and wilder hilly area with trees and such, which makes for a pretty surrounding. plus they both had islands with lovely paths and green places to relax. The old square in Prague is out of this world...an amazing huge clock that on the hour has a little show as the clock rings the bell and moving little guys on the clock. pretty cool. walking along the cobblestone street is very enchanting albeit probably a major pain for the locals (saw a guy attempting to push a cart along and he was going about 1/10 the speed he would have were it paved). but you know, for asthetics, it's wondrous. after awhile though, the tourist shops (practically every third shop in some areas) get dull quick as they all sell pretty much the same stuff. found a cafe with a french chef though, so I had a good backup place to eat. Ate some yummy goulash which is a bit like gheymeh....meat in a tomatoey sauce. although they eat theirs with dumplings. it's a bit more modernized and glamorous than budapest was...better shopping which I was thankful for when it rained...spent the better part of an afternoon on the park on the island basking in the sun and reading my book which I got at a cute little english book store where the shop owner helped me pick out a book (narrowed it down from about 10 choices to "my name is red" by orhan pamuk...so far it's amazing).
Took the night train back to Budapest to catch my flight back to Paris. Got a sleeper as the lady at the train station nodded her head vigorously when I asked if a sleeper was a better idea rather than just a seat. a bit pricy, but not a bad idea...much more comfortable than indian trains;) As I got on the train I asked the conductor if it was going to budapest (as it was rather unclear). He didn't understand much english but said it was. Had the compartment all to myself and was getting ready to sleep...it was only about 9:30 pm but I was for some reason very exhausted. Just as the train starts moving, the conductor comes into my room to check my ticket, then says something to me in czech...woa, what?? says I. after much confusion, he finally says budapest no. I'm looking out the window at the train station thinking, crap, I'm on the wrong train. then I find out (after a few minutes of perplexion) that the hungarian trains are on strike and the train will be stopping at a small town called sturovo. where was sturovo? I had no idea, and the train guy didn't either..at least he didn't understand my questions regarding that topic. then I found out it was a few hours from budapest (turns out it's right on the border on the slovak side). I asked if there were buses or taxis in sturovo that I could take...he just shrugged. upon further questioning, he says, well normal taxi yes, but sturovo small, who knows (shrug). exhausted and about 10:30 pm by this time, I decided to get off in sturovo and take the risk. met two other american girls from seattle (grad student and undergrad researcher in cancer bio oddly enough) who had no clue what was going on (I think my traveling has made it easier to understand people who speak no english oddly enough) and I told them what I had figured out and we decided to try to share a taxi to budapest together. at 7:30 am upon arriving in sturovo, we got off the train to see tons of others getting off also and we all were quickly ushered in to a herd of taxis eagerly awaiting our arrival. for 15 euros each, we piled into a van that took about an hour and a half to get to budapest, at which I quickly hurried to catch my shuttle bus to the airport, which I missed by about 10 minutes, so I ran into another taxi and spent another 24 euros to get there in time (I'd heard the airport taxis were bit of sharks, as the guy was trying to tell me that 5600 forint was about 30 euros when really its not more than 20, but we settled it by giving him 24)...I was in no mood for arguing or paying much more at that point. made my flight thankfully but it was an adventure.
so, something I've noticed, but there seems to be some German influence in Vienna and even Budapest. at a stoplight, pedestrians don't cross if it's red, even if there are NO cars in sight! it's insane. at one point, there were about 20 people waiting to cross the street and there were no cars coming, yet no one moved an inch...I kept creeping forward trying to get up the nerve to cross, but peer pressure hit and I just couldn't. it's weird and not obvious at first, but once you notice, you see it all the time. guess they listen to the rules strictly, but personally I feel like laws are made for a certain sense of order but people should be able to interpret them and figure out when it's ok to go around them...in fact, it's better if the people can show that they think a bit for themselves rather than think strictly to rules.
anyhoo, back in france for another week...woot;)
Saturday, May 9, 2009
Monday, May 4, 2009
ok change of plans....I'm going to med school in prague...
arrived in prague today after a four hour train ride from vienna, and boy does it seem like I've gone back in time a few hundred years. it's the most beautiful town I've ever seen. cobble stone streets, lots of old buildings that are well-preserved, and just the whole vibe of the town is out of this world. gonna go explore tomorrow...woot;)
the landscape on the way over here was really beautiful...at times almost felt like i was up in northern minnesota with the rocky cliffs and evergreens, then the gently rolling green hills. think im getting a bit homesick;) kept thinking about going for a run around calhoun, biking lots of places and playing with bailey...and of course hanging out with you all:) (if anyone is still even reading this??) it was pretty funny though...the train was 10 min late, and they kept coming on the loudspeaker and apologizing for the inconvenience..i kept thinking, man rock on, we're doing pretty well for timing;) hehe, i think all three places ive been to def have that german influence of timeliness. met these venezuelan kids in vienna who were pretty awesome and one of them is studying (chem!) in germany right now and told all these funny stories about them. apparently when they are working there is abosultely zero tolerance for chit chat (they dont even say hello sometimes) but as soon as theyre done they wanna go graba drink or hang out. he was telling lots more funny stories when two german kids walked in the door, at which point it was "man those "iranians" are so on time" which made us all burst out laughing as I told them persian culture with regards to time is very similar to latino. then the german kid came up to us in a very socially awkward way and was like "ahem, so people are trying to sleep so i think there should be no more talking now." pretty good..maybe you have to be there though. anyhoo, off to bed but hope u are all well. ciao from prague.
the landscape on the way over here was really beautiful...at times almost felt like i was up in northern minnesota with the rocky cliffs and evergreens, then the gently rolling green hills. think im getting a bit homesick;) kept thinking about going for a run around calhoun, biking lots of places and playing with bailey...and of course hanging out with you all:) (if anyone is still even reading this??) it was pretty funny though...the train was 10 min late, and they kept coming on the loudspeaker and apologizing for the inconvenience..i kept thinking, man rock on, we're doing pretty well for timing;) hehe, i think all three places ive been to def have that german influence of timeliness. met these venezuelan kids in vienna who were pretty awesome and one of them is studying (chem!) in germany right now and told all these funny stories about them. apparently when they are working there is abosultely zero tolerance for chit chat (they dont even say hello sometimes) but as soon as theyre done they wanna go graba drink or hang out. he was telling lots more funny stories when two german kids walked in the door, at which point it was "man those "iranians" are so on time" which made us all burst out laughing as I told them persian culture with regards to time is very similar to latino. then the german kid came up to us in a very socially awkward way and was like "ahem, so people are trying to sleep so i think there should be no more talking now." pretty good..maybe you have to be there though. anyhoo, off to bed but hope u are all well. ciao from prague.
Sunday, May 3, 2009
vienna...part two
so today was the museum filled day...yesterday I just wasnt in the mood for it, although the weather was a bit dismal so it would have been a good day for it. Instead yesterday I walked around town a bit and looked at the shops. also went to an open market and bought some cheese and bread for my train lunch tomorrow. not the most amazing market ever, but they had some nice looking food shops. went to the legendary cafe central with toula, my new aussie friend and we had coffee and apple strudel with vanilla sauce..it was a cute well decorated cafe with a grand piano and lovely music while we ate. also went to the haas and haas tea shop and smelled all the lovely teas. with all the sweets ive been eating its a good thing my hostel is about a 25 minute walk out of the center of town....been basically doing tons of walking everyday, so much so that my feet have really weird blisters on them...inward blisters really with cuts on the inside? hurts like heck to walk on them and im not really sure what i can do to help them out. anyhoo, today I woke up early and went to the schonnbrunn palace then went to the domayer cafe for some breakfast. spent a few hours reading a book-basking in the sun of the gardens....very beautiful and relaxing. the palace is quite lovely and had a very interesting audio guide along with it. the thing i liked the most was they had gold decorations around the mirrors and in some of the rooms the decorations had little holders that displayed all sorts of gorgeous vases...they also had a pretty room of monglo-persian miniatures covering the entire rooms walls which were pretty cool...apparently the king was a pretty no frills type of guy and his bed looked simpler than mine even. i was pretty impressed. learned a bit about the royal family and their lives which was pretty cool. forgot most of it by now though:) also went to the sisi museum and imperial apartments which were quite nice. then met up with toula again and we went to eat some legendary sachertorte...very yummy chocolate cake...yes austria hasnt been too kind to my diet:)
other than that, lifes been pretty relaxing. heading off tomorrow to prague for a few days so should be good. getting excited to come back home...
other than that, lifes been pretty relaxing. heading off tomorrow to prague for a few days so should be good. getting excited to come back home...
Friday, May 1, 2009
hungary hungarian days turning into coffee-apple strudel filled viennese ones:)
so my last few days in budapest were lovely...turned out the trains werent on strike, but i still stayed an extra day anyways...was staying at an awesome hostel (called thumbs up, how could it not be amazing?) and met some cool people. met an aussie girl and we spent a day together eating lots of yummy food and spending two hours trying to find a cave...even the information dude didnt know where it was. finally found it and it looked super lame so we didnt go in. went to the opera together (xerxes by handel) but it was surprise surprise in hungarian and had this really weird modernized vibe to it that just didnt work...we couldnt figure out the storyline as there were planes and cars and semi 'arab' slash hip hop dancing involved...but crazily enough the set had an apartment building with persian writing all over it....said something about love and shiraz and hafez and then on another side said iran on it...I was pretty surprised. we left at intermission and grabbed a yummy chocolate brownie dessert instead and didnt look back:) someone of my true kind.
won a beer off gabe the hostel owner as he said it was gonna rain, and i bet him that it wont. got it at 6 am this morning as i was on my way to vienna...anyone want some hungarian beer?? took a very quick and comfy train ride to vienna and spent the entire day roaming the streets. today is a bank holiday in europe and they had all these festivities going on the streets. started to rain a bit so I ran into the opera house just as fidelio was about to start...4€ for standing room ticket...boy was it a painful and hot few hours...was all in german so again had no idea what was going on...just read the bio on wiki and was surprised by the storyline...hehe...was like, woa that happened?! but I did understand some of the german stuff andits weird how some of my german from high school has come back a bit. albeit only a bit.
went to landtmans famous cafe and had a coffee and apple strudel this evening which was lovely...cant wait to try out some more lovely coffee places around town.
on a side note im in the internet cafe right by my hostel and the two guys right next to me got into a fight displaying their masculinity by an interesting display of english swear words...ended in the white german dude calling the arab a skinhead...interesting. for a sec i thought it was gonna escalate into a physical fight and i was getting ready to jump out of the way but thankfully it died down rather quick.
anyhoo, heres to more wunderbar coffees tomorrow...cheerio.
won a beer off gabe the hostel owner as he said it was gonna rain, and i bet him that it wont. got it at 6 am this morning as i was on my way to vienna...anyone want some hungarian beer?? took a very quick and comfy train ride to vienna and spent the entire day roaming the streets. today is a bank holiday in europe and they had all these festivities going on the streets. started to rain a bit so I ran into the opera house just as fidelio was about to start...4€ for standing room ticket...boy was it a painful and hot few hours...was all in german so again had no idea what was going on...just read the bio on wiki and was surprised by the storyline...hehe...was like, woa that happened?! but I did understand some of the german stuff andits weird how some of my german from high school has come back a bit. albeit only a bit.
went to landtmans famous cafe and had a coffee and apple strudel this evening which was lovely...cant wait to try out some more lovely coffee places around town.
on a side note im in the internet cafe right by my hostel and the two guys right next to me got into a fight displaying their masculinity by an interesting display of english swear words...ended in the white german dude calling the arab a skinhead...interesting. for a sec i thought it was gonna escalate into a physical fight and i was getting ready to jump out of the way but thankfully it died down rather quick.
anyhoo, heres to more wunderbar coffees tomorrow...cheerio.
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Budapest
few quick last things on Paris...crazy but one day I was walking around and some girl in front of me passed out and fell down...didnt see it but the people just in front of me did. her shopping bags were sprawled ont he groudn and she was breathing, but not conscious. it was creepy. ambulance came and took her away, not sure what happened but i think it was some weird neurological thing. anyhoo, one last comment on the difference bw france and iran....it was a big shock in the beiginning as the french girls were so down to earth and had natural tones...verz little makeup, natural tones and short unpainted nails with hair that was just in a pony tail or verz little done to it. in contrast, iranians have tons of bright usuallz makeup on, long painted nails fake looking eyebrows and done up hair. thez also always talk about how others look whereas in france it wasnt too often. not sure for the reason behind the differences but it was very noticeable...it was nice to cut my nails in france and just be myself without worrzng too much what I looked like.
anyhoo, budapest is amazing. very safe feeling and nice mix of beautiful old buildings and relativelz newer uglz as heck commi buildings. the foods not the healthiest and not the best...not enough spices for me...but thez use a lot of paprika which i love. got a gyro on te street the other day which was nice...yoghurt sauce was made with dill which was a very nice touch. went to the baths yesterdaz which were amazing...beautiful outside thermal heated pool with a gorgous building surrounding it. thez also had these pumps that would go on everzonce in awhile and the water would push zoou around in a circle which was prettz cool. it was so relaxing and the locals even plazed chess in the water. mmm, so budapest is actuallz two towns...buda on the left and pest on the right side of the danuble river. buda is hilly and green with the castle and such. pest is the commercial side and more busy. went to an amazing underground hospital today....started out a couple hundred zears ago as a bunch of cave cellars that people used to store wine and such to avoid taxes then thez were rediscovered in the 40s and joined together to be used as a safe hospital underground for the armz and aslo as a secret militarz meeting place with the germans. then in the 50s it was used as a nuke safe area and also a secret hospital. it has been kept a secret until onlz about 5 years ago and this cuople have been cleaning it and keeping it a secret for the last 40 years or so and doctors would go there everzonce in awhile to practice drills in case of nuclear attack. it was super cool and still had lots of original stuff from the 50s. verz neat. apparentlz used t be the state of the art surgery rooms and equipment which was cool to see as now it doesnt look like much, but thez even had an ekg and xray and autoclave. their own generator too and everthing hidden so no one would know it was there. at one point had 600 patients during the war. the guide told us a funnz storz about the different protocols if a nuclear attack occurred...the germans said that u should measure everzthing about it and give the info to zour superiors, and thanks for your service. the russians said u should lie on the ground with ur feet facing the explosion and ur soul would protect u from the attack. and the hungarians protocol called for u to wrap yourself in a wet blanket and try t omake it to the cemetary in time bc it would help clean up later:) lol it made me laugh a lot besides being a little creepz for official protocol.
anyhoo after walking around forever todaz (took me and this aussie girl about 2 hours to find the underground hospital as the signs here are nonexistent and horrible if existent) mz feet are killing me. sleep feels so good after a long days walk) off to the market and bumming around tomorrow then off to the opera at night and leaving for vienna on friday (apparentlz trains are on strike tomorrow so Ill be delayed a day). cheers from budapest!
anyhoo, budapest is amazing. very safe feeling and nice mix of beautiful old buildings and relativelz newer uglz as heck commi buildings. the foods not the healthiest and not the best...not enough spices for me...but thez use a lot of paprika which i love. got a gyro on te street the other day which was nice...yoghurt sauce was made with dill which was a very nice touch. went to the baths yesterdaz which were amazing...beautiful outside thermal heated pool with a gorgous building surrounding it. thez also had these pumps that would go on everzonce in awhile and the water would push zoou around in a circle which was prettz cool. it was so relaxing and the locals even plazed chess in the water. mmm, so budapest is actuallz two towns...buda on the left and pest on the right side of the danuble river. buda is hilly and green with the castle and such. pest is the commercial side and more busy. went to an amazing underground hospital today....started out a couple hundred zears ago as a bunch of cave cellars that people used to store wine and such to avoid taxes then thez were rediscovered in the 40s and joined together to be used as a safe hospital underground for the armz and aslo as a secret militarz meeting place with the germans. then in the 50s it was used as a nuke safe area and also a secret hospital. it has been kept a secret until onlz about 5 years ago and this cuople have been cleaning it and keeping it a secret for the last 40 years or so and doctors would go there everzonce in awhile to practice drills in case of nuclear attack. it was super cool and still had lots of original stuff from the 50s. verz neat. apparentlz used t be the state of the art surgery rooms and equipment which was cool to see as now it doesnt look like much, but thez even had an ekg and xray and autoclave. their own generator too and everthing hidden so no one would know it was there. at one point had 600 patients during the war. the guide told us a funnz storz about the different protocols if a nuclear attack occurred...the germans said that u should measure everzthing about it and give the info to zour superiors, and thanks for your service. the russians said u should lie on the ground with ur feet facing the explosion and ur soul would protect u from the attack. and the hungarians protocol called for u to wrap yourself in a wet blanket and try t omake it to the cemetary in time bc it would help clean up later:) lol it made me laugh a lot besides being a little creepz for official protocol.
anyhoo after walking around forever todaz (took me and this aussie girl about 2 hours to find the underground hospital as the signs here are nonexistent and horrible if existent) mz feet are killing me. sleep feels so good after a long days walk) off to the market and bumming around tomorrow then off to the opera at night and leaving for vienna on friday (apparentlz trains are on strike tomorrow so Ill be delayed a day). cheers from budapest!
Saturday, April 25, 2009
Easter in France
I think I've fallen in love....with Paris =) I've been in France now for the past 2.5 weeks and it has been blissful. I've been surrounded by lovely people, excellent food, beautiful sites and amazing weather...what more could one ask for? ok, probably a million dollars, but I'm being realistic here;) I spent a lovely Easter with our good family friends, the Wimmers, and it was a very special time. We drove up to their summer house in Carnac, a cute town in Bretagne, NW France on the coast. We went for many bike rides and runs along the beach, and I even got taken out for a wonderful ride on a sail boat. We went to mass, which was my first time ever going for Easter and it was really incredible...to be sitting in an ancient cathedral from the 1500s with amazing architecture and beautiful stained glass windows/paintings was quite an atmosphere. Plus, the Easter night mass was exceptionally eventful. The candles that we all held and light during different stages of the ceremony let off so much smoke that the fire alarm went off...and continued for a good 10 min before it finally stopped. Then there was a drunk man who after everytime the priest said "Jesus is our lord" shouted out "yeah!" It was quite amusing as the place was quiet and it was quite a formal affair...but they finally showed him to the door. We proceeded to eat amazing food that day (like all the others) and I ate, for the first time, pate, which was excellent. It was a very relaxing time with lots of great company and good wine;)
The French is, well, coming along albeit slowly. My brain has been filled with Farsi and now it is making a very slow transition to French, but I still think of things in Farsi first and occasionally spit out some Persian words mid-sentence, which I only realize when I get a weird look from someone else and realize that that was the wrong language. But they have told me that my accent isn't too bad, and is not the horrid American accent, so there is hope yet:) I think I have to return during med school for a longer period so that I can really buckle down and concentrate on learning it...right now it is kinda (as our good Armenian friend has said) a "half-arse show." And return I must...Paris is such an amazing place with so many cute little neighborhoods, amazing shops (although if I keep wandering into them I think I may be broke very soon...the european clothes are just so much cuter than american ones;) and restaurants/cafes.
Spent the last week with Jamileh which was wonderful...she showed me some of her favorite places which were fantastic and brought me along to the most amazing (and cheap) creperie. It's in a really cute part of town by the Sorbonne where a lot of University professors live with a very harvard-type feel to it....lots of cafes/restaurants and a very intellectual feel to it...I was in heaven. I also got to check out her lab which was pretty cool. I wandered around lots of neighborhoods in Paris, but there are still many more places to go to. The other day though I wandered into a mosque, which was in Moroccan style, and it was beautiful...a little haven right in the middle of busy Paris. I was shocked to find it and pleasantly surprised when I went in. The guy at the door asked me for my ticket (u are supposed to pay on entrance), but I wasn't about to pay to go in so I said (surprising myself with my french:) "c'est une mosque, n'est-ce pas?"(it's a mosque, no?) to which he replied, "oui, bien sure"(yes, certainly) and I said, "mais je suis musulman" (but I'm muslim) and he immediately happily said, "allez-y madame, allez-y" (go on in) and he was quite amused and on my way out asked me if I saw everything. It was fun;) Spent my birthday with her and had a tasty pear-chocolate cake and a special dinner. I treated myself to a bit of a shopping spree for my bday, which was fun;) and to top stuff off, one of the girls working the cash register asked me if I wanted a discount card for the store and I told her I wasn't French...she then said, "Oh, Italian? German? Spanish?" and I was like no, American. Then she said excitedly, "Beyonce!" and I laughed. then we talked a bit more and she told me I had really good French, which was the perfect bday treat:) so I guess in some ways, money CAN buy happiness...hehe:) guess I just have to do some more shopping:)
Anne-Claire and I had a crepe party the other night and it was pretty cool...everyone brought something along for the crepes and it was quite a success. I'm in lovely Versailles now and it's such a relaxing place. The palace is not too far away and has lovely gardens. I found a cheap ticket to Budapest, Hungary, so I will be leaving Monday for a 12 day adventure...I'm going to go to Vienna and Prague as well, and possibly Bratislava. It should be exciting! I've booked my hostels and some of the train tickets and I'm ready to go explore some beautiful cities and drink some amazing coffee and hear wonderful music...ahh, it's going to be hard to go back to school now.
Anyhoo, hope you are all doing well. I got my return ticket and will be coming back stateside on June 5th, so hope you are all ready;)
The French is, well, coming along albeit slowly. My brain has been filled with Farsi and now it is making a very slow transition to French, but I still think of things in Farsi first and occasionally spit out some Persian words mid-sentence, which I only realize when I get a weird look from someone else and realize that that was the wrong language. But they have told me that my accent isn't too bad, and is not the horrid American accent, so there is hope yet:) I think I have to return during med school for a longer period so that I can really buckle down and concentrate on learning it...right now it is kinda (as our good Armenian friend has said) a "half-arse show." And return I must...Paris is such an amazing place with so many cute little neighborhoods, amazing shops (although if I keep wandering into them I think I may be broke very soon...the european clothes are just so much cuter than american ones;) and restaurants/cafes.
Spent the last week with Jamileh which was wonderful...she showed me some of her favorite places which were fantastic and brought me along to the most amazing (and cheap) creperie. It's in a really cute part of town by the Sorbonne where a lot of University professors live with a very harvard-type feel to it....lots of cafes/restaurants and a very intellectual feel to it...I was in heaven. I also got to check out her lab which was pretty cool. I wandered around lots of neighborhoods in Paris, but there are still many more places to go to. The other day though I wandered into a mosque, which was in Moroccan style, and it was beautiful...a little haven right in the middle of busy Paris. I was shocked to find it and pleasantly surprised when I went in. The guy at the door asked me for my ticket (u are supposed to pay on entrance), but I wasn't about to pay to go in so I said (surprising myself with my french:) "c'est une mosque, n'est-ce pas?"(it's a mosque, no?) to which he replied, "oui, bien sure"(yes, certainly) and I said, "mais je suis musulman" (but I'm muslim) and he immediately happily said, "allez-y madame, allez-y" (go on in) and he was quite amused and on my way out asked me if I saw everything. It was fun;) Spent my birthday with her and had a tasty pear-chocolate cake and a special dinner. I treated myself to a bit of a shopping spree for my bday, which was fun;) and to top stuff off, one of the girls working the cash register asked me if I wanted a discount card for the store and I told her I wasn't French...she then said, "Oh, Italian? German? Spanish?" and I was like no, American. Then she said excitedly, "Beyonce!" and I laughed. then we talked a bit more and she told me I had really good French, which was the perfect bday treat:) so I guess in some ways, money CAN buy happiness...hehe:) guess I just have to do some more shopping:)
Anne-Claire and I had a crepe party the other night and it was pretty cool...everyone brought something along for the crepes and it was quite a success. I'm in lovely Versailles now and it's such a relaxing place. The palace is not too far away and has lovely gardens. I found a cheap ticket to Budapest, Hungary, so I will be leaving Monday for a 12 day adventure...I'm going to go to Vienna and Prague as well, and possibly Bratislava. It should be exciting! I've booked my hostels and some of the train tickets and I'm ready to go explore some beautiful cities and drink some amazing coffee and hear wonderful music...ahh, it's going to be hard to go back to school now.
Anyhoo, hope you are all doing well. I got my return ticket and will be coming back stateside on June 5th, so hope you are all ready;)
Monday, April 6, 2009
Celebrating Nowruz in style...on the beautiful island of Kish;)
Well, I spent a lovely two weeks celebrating Nowruz on Kish with Khanom Moghimi and her lovely family;) I learned to wake up everyone morning saying "ammmuuuuuuu" in response to the "emmmmmaaaaannnnn" that came to me from amu Khosro at the breakfast table, which turned into our greeting everytime we saw each other and made everyone burst into laughter. My farsi improved drastically, as I spoke entirely in Farsi, and was always listening to some conversation or other. And the kids had a really good command of english vocabulary, so whenever I ran into difficulties, they had the persian word for me. I was cracking jokes left and right in farsi, that's how good I got. And I learned some very important words, such as zed zed or zan zalil, which basically means someone who's "whipped." It was a lot of fun.
So a little bit about persian new year, or nowruz. It lasts thirteen days and dates back to ancient times (for more details, check out wikipedia). Iranians set up a "halft seen" or table with at least seven things that start with the letter s (in persian) on it. These include:
In addition, this year I learned the tradition of making ashe reshte (a yummy thick noodle/green veggie soup) on the first day of nowruz. Everyone puts in the noodles, and while doing so you are supposed to say your wishes and hopes for the upcoming year. At the exact moment of the coming of the new year, Persians around the world (at the same time everywhere) gather around the halft seen together to celebrate. And, most importantly, parents give out new bills to the kids;)
As the signs everywhere made certain to reinforce, it is the "beautiful island of Kish." and with the lovely sandy beaches and crystal clear blue/green water, they are quite right. It is a beautiful island and if there weren't segregated beaches, tourists would probably flock there from all over. I had a blast with everyone...at one point, there were 17 people in house, 10 of which were kids around my age. and boy did we have a blast together. There was so much love and happiness, it had a quite healing affect and I really felt like I was back home with all of you around;) I made some really good friends and it's going to be very difficult to leave Iran now. Our days were on a very interesting schedule...woke up around 11 am, ate breakfast, if it was nice, we went to the beach for a few hours. went back home around 5 pm, cleaned up and had "lunch." Then we lounged around for a bit, sometimes watching lovely classic tv shows such as Kolah Germezi, and Marde 1001 Chehre, which were highly entertaining. Then around 9 pm we went to one of Kish's many shopping malls and walked around for awhile, sometimes doing a bit of shopping;) Then we either went back home around midnight to have dinner, or went to Mita Kish to eat some yummy pizza or cake/ice cream. Then around 3 am we would go for a run in their gated community, without a scarf and in t-shirt and capris. With the lovely breeze and cooler/rainy weather we got, it was quite lovely. Then we went to bed about 4 or 5 am and started over the next day. It was quite a relaxing time. I got quite used to waking up and seeing about 5 or 6 others sleeping next to me so that when I got back to Tehran and woke up alone, it was quite lonely.
The beach, as previously stated, was lovely. They even had masseurs from Thailand that gave cheap massages. They had huge blow up balls that you could get in and roll around in the water. I've never seen that many women (without any men) at a beach before. You can also go jet skiing or scuba diving in the persian gulf, but unfortunately the weather was a bit grey so we never got around to doing it. The island has changed quite a bit since the last time I was there, about 7 years ago. It is more developed and was quite busy for Nowruz, as everyone went to enjoy the weather. It didn't affect us much we were staying at their house, but it was evident when it came to the water and shopping malls. As they purify the water from the ocean and thus have a limited supply, and with all the people coming, we frequently ran out of water and had to be very frugal with our use. No one wanted to get stuck in the shower when the water cut, bc then they would have to finish off with a bottle of water stored in the bathroom. The shopping malls were packed at night, with everyone practically on the island there, walking around to be seen;) Our favorite shop was the candy store, where I got them hooked on gummy peach o's. One night we went and I got them some candies, and I asked them what they wanted. when I was going to also get some peach o's, they were like, "no, don't get those for us, unless you want them for yourself" and I decided to get them. As we walked out of the store, they tasted them and immediately fell in love. Every night after that, we went back in and got at least two small bags for us. The third time we went in, the shopkeeper, recognizing us, suggested that we buy a whole box to save money and the trip;) It was pretty funny, but didn't stop us from going back and getting more.
We also ate some delicious kabobs...probably some of the best I've ever eaten. The meat was so delicious and tender. We went to a few concerts (Reza Sadeghi, and Ehsun something) which were really fun, and notably, started at 12:30 am! I discovered polaki...a circular, thin, crispy sweet that is amazing with tea. We took a tour of the island's highlights on the "party bus" as we all fit in one huge van and were singing and dancing to the music between tourist sites.
also, now I can claim to have met some underground Persian musicians....two of the guys there were singers and let us listen to their music. funny enough, the other kids recognized some of the songs and didn't know that it was them. interesting what occurs under such governments...
After arriving back in tehran, I received an interesting text message...."hello, what is your name?" to which I replied, "what is yours?" Here's the response: "Amir, 25 years!" lol, I had a good laugh on that one, to which I replied, "Eman, 23 years" and needless to say, there was no further contact (Eman is a guys name in Iran:) I was tempted to reply with "what, you're not interested anymore?" but I refrained. Went to the relatively new and beautiful Azadi cinema and watched the movie Superstar....I was pleasantly surprised that I understood most of the movie (probably about 95%) compared to about 30% of the movie I saw in Iran last year at the cinema...I guess somethings working;)
Anyhoo, leaving tomorrow for France, so should be exciting;) hope yall are well.
So a little bit about persian new year, or nowruz. It lasts thirteen days and dates back to ancient times (for more details, check out wikipedia). Iranians set up a "halft seen" or table with at least seven things that start with the letter s (in persian) on it. These include:
- sabzeh - wheat, barley or lentil sprouts growing in a dish - symbolizing rebirth
- samanu - a sweet pudding made from wheat germ - symbolizing affluence
- senjed - the dried fruit of the oleaster tree - symbolizing love
- sīr - garlic - symbolizing medicine
- sīb - apples - symbolizing beauty and health
- somaq - sumac berries - symbolizing (the color of) sunrise
- serkeh - vinegar - symbolizing age and patience
- Sonbol - Hyacinth (plant)
- Sekkeh - Coins - representative of wealth
- traditional Iranian pastries such as baghlava, toot, naan-nokhodchi
- Aajeel - dried nuts, berries and raisins
- lit candles (enlightenment and happiness)
- a mirror (symbolizing cleanness and honesty)
- decorated eggs, sometimes one for each member of the family (fertility)
- a bowl of water with goldfish (life within life, and the sign of Pisces which the sun is leaving)
- rosewater, believed to have magical cleansing powers
- the national colours, for a patriotic touch
- a holy book
In addition, this year I learned the tradition of making ashe reshte (a yummy thick noodle/green veggie soup) on the first day of nowruz. Everyone puts in the noodles, and while doing so you are supposed to say your wishes and hopes for the upcoming year. At the exact moment of the coming of the new year, Persians around the world (at the same time everywhere) gather around the halft seen together to celebrate. And, most importantly, parents give out new bills to the kids;)
As the signs everywhere made certain to reinforce, it is the "beautiful island of Kish." and with the lovely sandy beaches and crystal clear blue/green water, they are quite right. It is a beautiful island and if there weren't segregated beaches, tourists would probably flock there from all over. I had a blast with everyone...at one point, there were 17 people in house, 10 of which were kids around my age. and boy did we have a blast together. There was so much love and happiness, it had a quite healing affect and I really felt like I was back home with all of you around;) I made some really good friends and it's going to be very difficult to leave Iran now. Our days were on a very interesting schedule...woke up around 11 am, ate breakfast, if it was nice, we went to the beach for a few hours. went back home around 5 pm, cleaned up and had "lunch." Then we lounged around for a bit, sometimes watching lovely classic tv shows such as Kolah Germezi, and Marde 1001 Chehre, which were highly entertaining. Then around 9 pm we went to one of Kish's many shopping malls and walked around for awhile, sometimes doing a bit of shopping;) Then we either went back home around midnight to have dinner, or went to Mita Kish to eat some yummy pizza or cake/ice cream. Then around 3 am we would go for a run in their gated community, without a scarf and in t-shirt and capris. With the lovely breeze and cooler/rainy weather we got, it was quite lovely. Then we went to bed about 4 or 5 am and started over the next day. It was quite a relaxing time. I got quite used to waking up and seeing about 5 or 6 others sleeping next to me so that when I got back to Tehran and woke up alone, it was quite lonely.
The beach, as previously stated, was lovely. They even had masseurs from Thailand that gave cheap massages. They had huge blow up balls that you could get in and roll around in the water. I've never seen that many women (without any men) at a beach before. You can also go jet skiing or scuba diving in the persian gulf, but unfortunately the weather was a bit grey so we never got around to doing it. The island has changed quite a bit since the last time I was there, about 7 years ago. It is more developed and was quite busy for Nowruz, as everyone went to enjoy the weather. It didn't affect us much we were staying at their house, but it was evident when it came to the water and shopping malls. As they purify the water from the ocean and thus have a limited supply, and with all the people coming, we frequently ran out of water and had to be very frugal with our use. No one wanted to get stuck in the shower when the water cut, bc then they would have to finish off with a bottle of water stored in the bathroom. The shopping malls were packed at night, with everyone practically on the island there, walking around to be seen;) Our favorite shop was the candy store, where I got them hooked on gummy peach o's. One night we went and I got them some candies, and I asked them what they wanted. when I was going to also get some peach o's, they were like, "no, don't get those for us, unless you want them for yourself" and I decided to get them. As we walked out of the store, they tasted them and immediately fell in love. Every night after that, we went back in and got at least two small bags for us. The third time we went in, the shopkeeper, recognizing us, suggested that we buy a whole box to save money and the trip;) It was pretty funny, but didn't stop us from going back and getting more.
We also ate some delicious kabobs...probably some of the best I've ever eaten. The meat was so delicious and tender. We went to a few concerts (Reza Sadeghi, and Ehsun something) which were really fun, and notably, started at 12:30 am! I discovered polaki...a circular, thin, crispy sweet that is amazing with tea. We took a tour of the island's highlights on the "party bus" as we all fit in one huge van and were singing and dancing to the music between tourist sites.
also, now I can claim to have met some underground Persian musicians....two of the guys there were singers and let us listen to their music. funny enough, the other kids recognized some of the songs and didn't know that it was them. interesting what occurs under such governments...
After arriving back in tehran, I received an interesting text message...."hello, what is your name?" to which I replied, "what is yours?" Here's the response: "Amir, 25 years!" lol, I had a good laugh on that one, to which I replied, "Eman, 23 years" and needless to say, there was no further contact (Eman is a guys name in Iran:) I was tempted to reply with "what, you're not interested anymore?" but I refrained. Went to the relatively new and beautiful Azadi cinema and watched the movie Superstar....I was pleasantly surprised that I understood most of the movie (probably about 95%) compared to about 30% of the movie I saw in Iran last year at the cinema...I guess somethings working;)
Anyhoo, leaving tomorrow for France, so should be exciting;) hope yall are well.
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